STYLE AND AESTHETIC

 

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What can I expect when considering my first purchase from this range of fragrances?

Over time, many long established perfume houses come to embody a particular scent style; an aromatic aesthetic that somehow encapsulates the entire range of its fragrance line, even though individual fragrances dramatically change in composition.

There are numerous reasons for this. A compositional stamp may be used; a ‘cordial’ of notes that form the very basis of each and every formula. Many people are familiar with the ‘Guerlainade’ of Guerlain’s fine fragrances. Similarly, many Chanel fragrances contain a recognisable core that is surrounded by embellishments that provide fresh nuances and variations. Dior have released many fragrances that elaborate on certain themes that lead scent fashion trends. These threads or cordials typically reflect the signature style of an in-house perfumer stamping or marking their work with the flourish of a unique artistry that immediately signifies the house to which it belongs.

Obviously, for long-established houses such as Guerlain, Chanel and Dior (among many others), the cordial is altered, sometimes imperceptibly, and often dramatically, to match the fragrance fashion trends of the times. This may happen as new in-house perfumers are appointed. This feature can be polarising to many consumers, some bitterly lament the loss of their dearly beloved formulas. There is enormous resistance to accepting reformulated fragrances carrying the same name as previous iterations. Other consumers welcome the modernisation of formulas that no longer fit within the rapid evolution of fragrances and the shifting landscape of people’s need to be unique and in step with current trends.

Many reformulated classics have been altered to comply with industry regulations that restrict or ban certain ingredients based on decisions made by IFRA. Debate around this regulatory intervention is heated and resented by many.

My own range of perfumes is stylistically defined by several practical and aesthetic factors.

1. In Australia, IFRA compliance is voluntary and I choose, as a natural perfumer to use real rose absolute, real jasmine, and real oakmoss (among other naturals), with the appropriate provision of product information and recommended guidelines for safe usage. My position on this is that peanut consumption threatens the lives of people with peanut allergies, and yet, peanuts are widely available in the world. The very worst that can happen to a person with skin sensitivity to rose oil or oakmoss etc, is a mild topical itch or rash where the perfume is applied, which disappears as soon as product use is discontinued. Therefore, my choice to use real oakmoss and rose etc provides a very beautiful vintage style of richness and depth to my fragrances.

TRNP Fleurs Sauvages

2. TRNP Orientals and Chypres each contain a very solid base accord that establishes the ground of the composition by holding each fragrance in place. My base accords are beautiful enough to be worn as perfumes in their own right, but they function wonderfully as my TRNP scent cordials. They provide long-lasting dry-downs, and anchor each fragrance for optimum projection.

3. Many of the fragrances in the range are contemporary interpretations of vintage classics, modernised merely by the fact that no synthetic ingredients are used. This is an interesting irony, simply in noticing that the wheel of time returns us to the roots and origins of perfumery, before synthetic ingredients were used.

4. Many of the compositions have been conceptually shaped by my deep love of Eastern mysticism; the cultural diversity and history of ancient scent traditions. From the ritual uses of incense in Hinduism, Islam, Buddhism, Catholicism, Pagan traditions and Indigenous ceremonies, to the beautification rituals of people in all cultures throughout history. Our intense passion for, and indeed, our obsessions with adorning, anointing, smoking, smudging, purifying, romanticising and sanctifying our selves and our surroundings, is largely what I strive to reflect in my compositions.

5. TRNP fragrances are dense, potent, complex, long-lasting, moody, bold, solid, robust and beautiful. Naturally.