I’ve been wrestling with orris root for a very long time. It’s a tricky element in natural perfumery, where too much is overwhelming, and imparts a flatness and an oily heaviness. Not enough, and the nose keeps hunting for more of that earthy ground…
The mistake I’ve often made is to crowd the orris with too much floral sweetness to offset or elevate that earthy flatness. I guess that’s why many Iris scents are described as imparting a melancholy, sombre, greyness.
So, in my creative tinkerings, I managed to blend a couple of early sketches from my iris adventures and finally unlocked a beautifully harmonious moment. It was my personal precious (mine!!) for a few years, and I simply called it Iris. It took a lot of courage to upscale, as the ingredients are very expensive, and as mentioned, it very easily tips too far in either direction.
Here, at last is the vibrant blue fruit of all those creative learning curves and some sheer tenacity. Irises.
Bergamot, Jasmine Grandiflorum, Virginian Cedarwood, Orris root, Violet leaf, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli and Mysore sandalwood. A vintage styled European treasure emerging from the last century, reconstructed with my mind focused on scenting Van Gogh’s extraordinarily beautiful rendering of Iridaceae.
30ml spray atomiser.